I DO NOT ACCEPT DOWN PAYMENTS, HAVE A PAYMENT PLAN, OR HOLD DRAGONS WITHOUT THEM BEING PAID FOR IN FULL.
SHIPPING IS GENERALLY $50 OUTSIDE OF FLORIDA FOR THE SMALLER BOXES AND YOU CAN COMBINE SHIPPING OF COURSE. LARGER BOXES INQUIRE FOR A SHIPPING QUOTE.
WE ACCEPT THESE TYPES OF PAYMENT: PERSONAL CHECK, MONEY ORDER, BANK TRANSFER, ZELLE.
YOU ARE AGREEING THAT YOU HAVE READ THE CARE SHEET AT THE BOTTOM OF THIS PAGE FROM THE BEGINNING TO THE END AND DO NOT DISAGREE WITH THIS BREEDERS GUARANTEES, TERMS, AND RESPONSIBILITY TOWARDS CUSTOMERS.
The tangs are a result of crossing my Dad's Cletus (red) and a yellow/green female. The progeny were an electrifying, safety cone orange..we didn't know what to think. Now, at this time there were really no hypomelanistics to speak of and these were especially clean and orange. We then crossed these out to the black nailed ghosts (called ghosts back then but are simply snows or a light colored normal). This pairing resulted in some of the most prolific dragons we have ever had. The nicest development of this bloodline was later on when we had hypo citrus from Goldfinger and crossed the tangs into this hypo citrus..the progeny were electric tangerine and all het hypo, they took off from there. One of the most famous of the hypotangs was "Juilo" a 23" 700g bright hypotang beast that bred well into his 7th year...he was a breeding machine. The hypotang is the only male line I know of on the planet that will breed more than 5 females a year and keep going into middle age, not to mention being that big a male line ...a fantastic, prolific line of dragons and we have direct Julio bloodlined animals in the colony today. This line has produced with regularity "smooth" scaled dragons although they have no leatherback in the bloodline and large number of paradox dragons. I sold many hundreds before I knew that this line was evolving...now you can see hypotang extreme paradox in many, many colonies all over the world.
Red Citrus is not a Red crossed to a citrus. The story is very old actually. Apollo one of our bright citrus males was bred to numerous yellow females and the result was 100% red dragons with high yellow undertones. This would be fine if Apollo was actually a red dragon that hatched out yellow, however, he was one of our line bred Citrus dragons. We could not market these dragons as Citrus even though they were pure Citrus bearded dragons. They certainly were not Crimson or Bloods either. So we had to ID the progeny in a way we would understand what would happen if we outcrossed them. The ID on all the cages for these babies was: CRCT...other wise known as Crazy Red Citrus Turkeys. You can spot one of these anywhere! I have seen people buy them and then rename them with their own names, market them in other countries where those people didn't know what they actually had genetically...however..all of them have a neon yellow undertone with cherry red orange stamped on top. This line crosses in to the tangs beautifully and it is a favorite of mine. Everyone that has a Red Citrus say they are pretty much one person dragons...sweet but prefer their handler to care for them and they snub other people.
Dragon room is 80 degrees ambient with 40% -44% humidity, less than this the dragons don't shed properly here. All hot spots range from 90 to 105 degrees based on time of day here in S. FL.
Base salad: chopped organic collard greens, organic carrot shavings with peeler, organic summer squash shavings with peeler, kale (2 x per week in the base salad), you can top base salad with Nature Zone dragon bites (some of mine eat it some don’t) or RepCal bearded dragon food (some of mine eat it and some don’t) I will offer blueberries and raspberries in season 2x week.
Why organic? Several years ago I had two sick dragons they were in the 4yr old range..we didn't find a whole lot on the fecal .....we racked our brains with this ..we were literally stumped. After months of supportive care these two dragons died. When the vet the did the necropsy she found tumors within the dragons, these tumors were cancer and responsible for the death of the dragons. Although we can’t pinpoint how they got this, it is logical to assume the same way we get cancer from pesticides and fertilizer from our food. I had been buying my greens at Walmart and not in the organic section The vet really counseled me on how pesticides and fertilizers work, what they are made of and the damage they can do.
2-4 month age group:
9:30am remove uneaten salad and feed 1/4 - 1/2" crickets or Dubia roaches (www.buydubia.com) based on size of hatchlings (width of jaw on dragon should be equal to body length of cricket. Dust these crickets with calcium supplement (Terramin) (we have not been supplementing with D3 lately because the UVB bulbs are doing such a great job and the babies go outside during the day some too). Feed as much of these as he will eat in a sitting. If you do not rotate your dragon outside then a calcium with D3 is recommended. Put dragon in separate feeding tub to feed these live feeders. If your new dragon freaks out when you put it in the feeder bin, then just add the feeders to his cage, but watch him eat them and remove if he does not hit them within a few minutes....keep trying this until he is eating a few feedings well and then try him in the feeder bin again. You can also offer baby 1/2" super worms/hornworms at this time for variety.4:30 pm crickets/roaches as much as he will eat in his feeding tub in a sitting 6:00pm clean cage Do not let feeders run around the cage with dragon in it...the dragon will become stressed and he will go off feed, the feeders will bury themselves in substrate (roaches) and you will not know and continue to put them in the cage. Dragon will lose his mind, be terrorized by the feeders and it will literally ruin the dragon. Please take care and feed him in a separate feeding bin. This age group..especially hypos will drink more water than any other age group. I hand water them with a syringe every 2nd day. You can soak them in a sink with lukewarm water filled to belly..do not leave unattended.These guys are kept on baby racks with solid color tubs under a 10.0 ReptiSun UVB bulb. Superworms fed properly are a good staple. I have been feeding them more than 20 yrs without one instance. Do take care to feed the proper size to the age and size of the dragon..that should be a given.
4-6 month age group:
9:30am remove uneaten salad and put dragon in a separate feeding tub with medium sized crickets or Dubia roaches about 1/2" - 3/4" dust with calcium every 2nd day. Offer half grown hornworms too. You can also offer 3/4 grown super worms as much as he wants to eat in a sitting in your separate feeding tub.
4:30pm crickets or roaches fed the same as above
6:00pm clean cage
This age group is put into the soak sink with luke-warm water to the bottom of their bellies every 3rd day. Do not leave unattended, wait until all drink and then remove. If they poo in the water do not let them drink. Remove dragon and sanitize the sink and then begin another soak. These guys are kept in melamine cages with ReptiSun 10.0 UVB bulbs
6 month to Adult:
8:00am: Salad sprinkled with a little Veggie Booster by Repashy (www.store.repashy.com) Salad is the main food source for this age group. Replace eaten salad with more until 1pm
Feed dragons that are 6-8 months old every 2nd day with dubias (as much as they will eat in a sitting in a separate feeding tub). If the dragon does not want to eat his salad or feeders every 2nd day that is perfectly normal, metabolism is slowing down on some dragons at this stage, but they should want to eat live feeders at least twice per week unless they are trying to brumate (a dragons natural yearly cycle of slowing down his bodily functions in the winter in preparation for breeding)
If they are older than 9 months give feeders every 3rd day in a separate feeding tub. Hornworms are a fantastic staple for this age group. I try to offer them once a week or twice a week if I have enough on hand.
These dragons are put into the soak sink luke warm water up to belly every 4th day..they just don't drink more than that usually and putz around in the water swimming but not drinking...LOL so every 4th day they do fantastic and all seem to drink on this magic number 4 offering of water.
These guys are kept in large melamine cages with mercury vapor and sodium bulbs.
Housing: Our lights are on from 6:30am to 6:30pm. Hatchlings are housed in open bins in a well ventilated room with a dehumidifier and dedicated A/C...humidity stays at 44% Our hatchlings are kept on newspaper and these bins are wiped out at least every 2 days with a Clorox/water mixture and toweled dry, after several weeks they are moved to sifted play sand..I have NEVER had one impaction caused by sand in my 25 years of keeping dragons...I have had many thousands of dragons.....don't offer prey too little for dragon to latch and force him to grab a mouthful of sand. Our dragons tend to grow better and thrive better on play sand...not sure why, more likely the sand gets warm promoting digestion and feed response, the dragons here are constant feeders throughout their day. I have tried bran, alfalfa pellets, corn cob pellets, etc. and all of it is dusty, when wet breeds mold, and not conducive to growing these dragons right. Either paper or play sand can be used. The play sand has to be changed at least every 4 weeks. The dragon room has an ambient temperature of 80 degrees by 12pm in the summer here in South Florida so we use a 40W bulb on the hot spot making the spot around 90-95 degrees, The overall humidity in the building is kept at 44% by a humidifier, which is necessary in this part of the country. We have best luck with the ReptiSun bulbs 10.0 for the hatchlings and they are placed 13" from the top of the basking stick here. Adults have Mecury Vapor and Sodium lamps and live in 8ft long communes for girls and 4ft singles for adult males. We also have rotational days of natural sunlight, please understand this is why the dragons are big, plump, and look so vibrant here. We do not use glass cages as they are too hard for me to clean and the dragons look ugly in a glass cage (you might try covering your glass cage with newspaper to reduce stimuli as these dragons have been in baby bins or melamine tanks here and have not seen out)...they do far better in melamine, ABS, Vision, or wood.
Parasites: We do not routine de-worm the dragons here. Fenbendazole even in small doses causes liver damage in a bearded dragon if used too often. Years ago I de-wormed everything 3 months old and older routinely for a while and this shortened the life of the dragons. I had created a problem that did not exist trying to treat them as we do our horses and mammal pets and to see if this would be a benefit to these reptiles as it is to our mammal pets. We had no data on this at the time and as a pioneer breeder we supply the information to the colleges of veterinary medicine (publishing purposes) and public on these trial and errors. It was far worse to routine de-worm a dragon than to treat an infection that can pop up. Now, we do not de-worm or routinely administer anything other than vitamins and minerals to any dragon unless we spot questionable behavior and then a fecal or blood work is performed by my licensed reptile vet to identify and properly treat a problem found. The absolute best thing to prevent infection of a healthy dragon ...of any kind really is.... wash those greens! try to get dragon off crickets and onto a roach/worm feeder, NO crowding, lots of ventilation, correct temps, proper feed, and LOW stress environment. When your dragon arrives it could be dark in color (not likely, but sometimes the polars, purples, and snows like to darken themselves) and not look like the picture for a few hours, this is because the dragon will darken himself to absorb heat when they are cold. Put the baby under the hot spot and allow him to come to cage temp. If your housing is not like described above, or you have a glass cage (dragons do not look pretty here in glass cages and are darker in them...we don't use glass cages) you may want to make some changes to your enclosure so that it is somewhat similar for a while until the dragon adjusts. We do not put hides of any kind in the cages, this promotes squirrely behavior here and the dragon sometimes wants to stay in this thing forever. We have rubber sticks that can be bought at any reptile store..they are able to be scrubbed with soap and water and you can adjust the height by bending them.
Live Arrival Guarantee: The dragon is guaranteed to arrive alive. The animal must be retrieved from the delivery person's hands and not left on door step at all. Fedex will leave this dragon on door step and may not even knock or ring your door bell there is no signature upon delivery as I do not want this dragon to go back into the truck and ride in the extreme heat or cold all day until 5 or 6pm when delivery person returns to the Fedex warehouse...the dragon will not survive this. You MUST make arrangements to be at the location where dragon is delivered and you MUST be waiting and on the lookout for this dragon. The tracking number is provided to you via a photograph of label sent to your phone on day of ship out with a confirmation response from you. It is your responsibility to wait for animal and track the number if he does not arrive on time and then notify me if there is an issue with the Fedex delivery.
In the extremely rare instance that a dragon may be found deceased when you open the box, and I can't stress enough how very rare this is.....you must notify me by text or phone call to: 561-309-9956 with accompanying photo within 15 minutes of the delivery time that is noted on my Fedex shipper's notification panel and I will refund the purchase price. ( If I trade or purchase a dragon from a fellow breeder..I retrieve dragon from delivery person's hands and I open the box immediately without delay...My customers are required to take the same care and dedication to these animals as I do on arrival day). Please note that Fedex does not have a live arrival guarantee on animals and does not offer a refund. If Fedex offers any reimbursement for a late delivery this will be forwarded to the customer.
If I am notified about a death more than 30 minutes after arrival and again extremely, extremely rare........I will understand that you left the animal out on your door step.... it over heated or became cold because you did not retrieve dragon from delivery person's hands and open box immediately as agreed and you will not get a refund.
If you have followed this care sheet and your dragon is ill within 6 weeks of delivery and this is rare, but I understand things can happen..... I will refund the purchase price of the animal and animal must be returned to me at my expense for medical treatment. If you have purchased a dragon and all of a sudden notify me 2 months, 4 months, 8 months, 2yrs, 5yrs, 10yrs or more later that dragon is sick or died and I have never heard from you, your veterinarian, your spouse, your mom, your dad, your teacher by phone, by text, by carrier pigeon or marching band that animal was having trouble and you want your money back I will understand you have not taken care of this animal, or it died of old age...and no refund. My phone number is 561-309-9956 and can be found on google (Tammy Aldrich or Draggintails) on the web, my website, or go to Kingsnake or Fauna and ask on a thread..it gets back to me in less than a few hours..my phone number has not changed in many years. If you call me or text me my response time is pretty quick usually in just minutes.