Dragon room is 80 degrees ambient with 40% -44% humidity, less than this the dragons don't shed properly here. All hot spots range from 90 to 105 degrees based on time of day here in S. FL.
Base salad: chopped organic collard greens, organic carrot shavings with peeler, organic summer squash shavings with peeler, kale (2 x per week in the base salad), you can top base salad with Nature Zone dragon bites (some of mine eat it some don’t) or RepCal bearded dragon food (some of mine eat it and some don’t) I will offer blueberries and raspberries in season 2x week.
Why organic? Several years ago I had two sick dragons they were in the 4yr old range..we didn't find a whole lot on the fecal .....we racked our brains with this ..we were literally stumped. After months of supportive care these two dragons died. When the vet the did the necropsy she found tumors within the dragons, these tumors were cancer and responsible for the death of the dragons. Although we can’t pinpoint how they got this, it is logical to assume the same way we get cancer... from pesticides and fertilizer in our food. I had been buying my greens at Walmart and Aldi and not in the organic section. The vet really counseled me on how pesticides and fertilizers work, what they are made of and the damage they can do.
4-8wk age group:
8:00am 1/8"-1/4" dusted crickets first before salad
9:30am salad chopped super fine
Every 3 hours after 8am I feed crickets undusted until 6pm.......because they live in groups they feed this often.
Dehydration: a dehydrated baby dragon will twitch like calcium deficiency, he will wobble and be unable to walk properly, he will have wrinkly skin, he can't open or close his jaws properly. After watering a dehydrated dragon these symptoms will disappear quickly. Dehydration causes death very quickly in a young dragon. DRAGONS NEED WATER, ESPECIALLY BABIES! Keep your baby watered at least every 2 days. I use a syringe and offer bottled water from this syringe...he drinks until he stops.
2-4 month age group:
9:30am remove uneaten salad and feed 1/4 - 1/2" crickets or Dubia roaches (www.buydubia.com) based on size of hatchlings (width of jaw on dragon should be equal to body length of cricket. Dust these crickets once per day with Miner-All . Feed as much of these as he will eat in a sitting. You can also offer small baby soldier fly larvae/phoenix worms at this time for variety and I will sprinkle these into their cages every couple of hours between meals to keep them busy, or you can add them to a bowl or dish.
4:30 pm crickets/roaches as much as he will eat
6:00pm clean cage Do not let feeders run around the cage with dragon in it...the dragon will become stressed and he will go off feed, Dragon will lose his mind, be terrorized by the feeders and it will literally ruin the dragon. Please take care and monitor the feedings. This age group..especially hypos will drink more water than any other age group. I hand water them with a syringe every 2nd day. You can soak them in a sink with lukewarm water filled to belly..do not leave unattended.
4-6 month age group:
8:00am salad (sprinkle SuperVeggie every 3rd day)
9:30am remove uneaten salad and put dragon in a separate feeding tub with medium sized crickets or Dubia roaches about 1/2" - 3/4" dust with Miner-All every 2nd day andOffer half grown horn worms too. You can also offer 1/2 grown super worms or Soldier fly larvae/phoenix worms..the dark crawlers as much as he wants to eat in a sitting in your separate feeding tub.
4:30pm crickets or roaches fed the same as above
6:00pm clean cage
This age group is put into the soak sink with luke-warm water to the bottom of their bellies every 3rd day. Do not leave unattended if they poo in the water do not let them drink.
6 month to Adult:
8:00am: Salad (sprinkle SuperVeggie every 3rd day)Salad is the main food source for this age group.
Replace eaten salad with more until 1pm
Feed dragons that are 6-8 months old every 2nd or 3rd day with dubias and Soldier fly larvae. If the dragon does not want to eat his salad once in a while that is perfectly normal, metabolism is slowing down on some dragons at this stage, but they should want to eat live feeders at least twice per week unless they are trying to brumate (a dragons natural yearly cycle of slowing down his bodily functions in the winter)
Horn worms are a fantastic feeder for this age group. I try to offer them once a week or twice a week if I have enough on hand.
HOUSING: Our lights are on from 6:30am to 6:30pm. Hatchlings are housed in melamine cages or in plastic bins in a dragon building with an A/C and the humidity stays at 44%. Our hatchlings are kept on newspaper or paper towels , clean cage before you feed the dragon every time ..and these bins are wiped out daily with vinegar/water mix and at least every 2 days with a Clorox/water mixture and toweled dry. I use the coated bendable cage screen (like for rabbit cages, but they have a green coating...I buy them at home depot) as little bridges for them to climb while basking...it washes great..and these are scrubbed with soap and water daily or as needed. The basking spots are 95 to 103 degrees depending upon the time of day this is achieved with an incandescent bulb..depending upon size of cage it could be 60 w to 100w . These babies have repti-Sun 10.0 uvb tubes as the uvb source. The uvb tubes are 13" from the top of the heads when they are basking.
Sub adults-Adults have Power Sun Mecury Vapor bulbs, these bulbs have spot heat and UV in one with basking temps of 95-105 degrees and this age group live in 8ft melamine communes for girl groups and 4ft melamine cages for lone adult males. Adults live on sifted play sand especially if they are outside or on linoleum flooring ...I have never had one impaction on play sand in my over 27yrs of keeping dragons, not one...we have had a lot of dragons. Cages are kept clean at all times. I DO NOT USE GLASS CAGES HERE as they are too hard for me to clean and the dragons look ugly in a glass cage , it is fine if you have a glass cage but they look prettier in melamine, ABS, Vision, or wood.
PARASITES: We do not routine de-worm the dragons here. Fenbendazole even in small doses causes liver damage in a bearded dragon if used routinely. Years ago I de-wormed everything 3 months old and older routinely for a while and this shortened the life of the dragons. I had created a problem that did not exist trying to treat them as I did my horses and mammal pets and to see if this would be a benefit to these reptiles. We had no data on this at the time and as a pioneer breeder we supply the information to the colleges of veterinary medicine and public on these trial and errors. It was far worse to routine de-worm a dragon than to treat an infection that can pop up. Now, we do not de-worm or routinely administer anything other than vitamins and minerals to any dragon unless we spot questionable behavior and then a fecal and/or blood work is performed by my licensed reptile vet to identify and properly treat a problem found.
The absolute best thing to prevent infections in a healthy dragon ...of any kind really is.... wash those greens, keep his cage clean and do not have water bowls in his cage. Do not let younger dragons see older dragons (little dragons stress out when seeing older dragons it is a threat). Try to get dragon off crickets as he ages and onto a roach/worm feeder, NO crowding, lots of ventilation, correct temps, proper feed, and LOW stress environment. My dragons die of old age not bacterial infections. There are many hundreds of people out there that send me pics and updates of dragons they bought 10-plus years ago from me and most people that purchase dragons are repeat customers.
When your dragon arrives it could be dark in color and not look like the picture, this is generally due to being bounced around a few airplane rides a truck ride and now stress of relocation..being separated from his siblings...being alone. Put the baby under the hot spot and allow him to come to cage temp. If your housing is not like described above, or you have a GLASS CAGE (dragons do not look pretty here in glass cages and are darker in them..I CAN'T STRESS ENOUGH THAT I DO NOT USE GLASS CAGES THE DRAGONS WILL NOT BE AS COLORFUL) you may want to make some changes to your enclosure so that it is somewhat similar for a while until the dragon adjusts.
We do not put hides of any kind in the cages, this promotes squirrely behavior here and the dragon sometimes wants to stay in this thing forever.
REQUESTS FOR PICTURES OF PARENTS, SIBLINGS, OR RELATIVES WILL NOT BE ACCOMMODATED AT ALL. I GET UPWARDS OF A HUNDRED REQUESTS IN A WEEK MOSTLY FROM MINORS OR PICTURE COLLECTORS WHOM I NEVER HEAR FROM AGAIN AND THIS AMOUNT OF WORK IS UNPRODUCTIVE. REPRESENTATIVES AND RELATIVES PHOTOS CAN BE SEEN ON THE FRONT PAGE OF THIS WEBSITE OR ON SOLD DRAGON PAGE.
Live Arrival Guarantee: The dragon is guaranteed to arrive alive. Every December Fedex will put restrictions on this guarantee due to heavy volume, it will be noted on the available page when this happens.
The animal must be retrieved from the delivery person's hands and not left on door step at all. Fedex will leave this dragon on door step and may not even knock or ring your door bell there is no signature upon delivery as I do not want this dragon to go back into the truck and ride in the extreme heat or cold all day until 5 or 6pm when delivery person returns to the Fedex warehouse...the dragon will not survive this. You MUST make arrangements to be at the location where dragon is delivered and you MUST be waiting and on the lookout for this dragon. The tracking number is provided to you via a photograph of label sent to your phone on day of ship out. It is your responsibility to wait for animal and track the number if he does not arrive on time and then notify me if there is an issue with the Fedex delivery. In the extremely rare instance that a dragon may be found deceased when you open the box, and I can't stress enough how very rare this is.....you must notify me by text or phone call to: 561-309-9956 with accompanying photo within 15 minutes of the delivery time that is noted on my Fedex shipper's notification panel and I will refund the purchase price. ( If I trade or purchase a dragon from a fellow breeder..I retrieve dragon from delivery person's hands and I open the box immediately without delay...My customers are required to take the same care and dedication to these animals as I do on arrival day). If I am notified about a death more than 30 minutes after arrival and again rare........I will understand that you left the animal out on your door step.... it over heated or became cold because you did not retrieve dragon from delivery person's hands and open box immediately as agreed and you will not get a refund.
Late Arrival: There are no refunds from Fedex of shipping fee for late deliveries due to inclement weather ......this does not happen often. If there is a mechanical issue with plane and it is noted only then will Fedex offer a refund and I will forward this to customer. I have not seen that happen yet.
If you have followed this care sheet and feeding guidelines on it and not fed him something not outlined above and your dragon is ill within 5 days of delivery and this is rare, but I understand things can happen..... I will refund the purchase price, but the not shipping fee of the animal and animal must be returned to me at my expense for medical treatment. I do not give refunds because the lizard does not like his cage, the kids, dogs, birds, etc are making him stressed because of this, etc.
Dragons can be held for up to 5 days if paid in full. No holds of any kind under any circumstances without full payment. If you are corresponding with me about a particular dragon and even tell me you are sending payment I am not obligated to hold this dragon while you do so. Please understand that thousands of minors cruise my site monthly and I am unable to tell adult from child sometimes with all the texting going on......... I have many promises of payment ...I overlook promises until a payment actually is received. The person who sends the payment will receive dragon.
I get mine from ovipost.com
I get mine from ovipost.com
I get mine on Ebay from: fen682nar
I get mine from greatlakeshornworm.com
You can't get them in Florida. Try buydubia.com
Can be substituted for hornworms or super worms. I get mine on ebay...just type in "silkworm". Try mulberryfarms.com if nothing pops up
I will hand feed this or sprinkle on salad of the older dragons. I get it on Amazon.
I hand feed or sprinkle on salads of the older lizards. I get it on Amazon.
I soak in water until moist and sprinkle on baby salads or if I am out of greens, this is the breakfast cereal. I get mine on Ebay, Amazon or bigappleherp.
I sprinkle this on baby salads, but my adult males LOVE this alone and will eat a whole plate of it..my girls don't care too much for it. I get mine on Ebay, Amazon, or bigappleherp...wherever I can get a deal
I make this according to directions and hand feed to any dragon that wants to eat it...several days per week as a nice treat
This is a fun salad topper, the dragons will readily eat it...I feed it to the sub adults and older.
I get mine on Amazon
I get mine on Amazon
This is a super nice all in one supplement. Extra fine milled ...coats better than anything on the market. If you are out of Vionate and Miner-All..this is a good replacement. I get mine on ebay
These are for heat only it goes beside the uvb strip in my baby cages. I get them at Walmart
I use these in the big adult cages for heat and uvb all in one. I get these on Ebay...great deals!
These are used along side the heat only bulb to provide UVB, for the babies....my big dragons have those mercury vabor bulbs
These are good for putting in a cage if you don't have a bunch of cages. I get these on Walmart.com
I use this mostly because I have a lot of cages and I can go from one to the next and zap the basking spot to see if it is right...this one comes from Walmart, but you can get them on Amazon cheap too
I get these on Amazon or Ebay..who ever has them cheapest.
I cleanse any wound with this and rinse well, I have used this over 25yrs. I get this on Amazon
After I cleanse a wound I will spray this on and let this dry. I get this on Amazon
The absolute best wound gel in the world...will destroy bacteria or fungus. I put this on last after my vetricyn has dried. This stuff is great for flap bites (when the male bites the female neck in mating) or anything on dragon that needs treated. Get it on Amazon