FEEDING SHEET

 This is a general guide most people will adjust what works best for their individual dragon 

 SALAD: Spring mix or chopped organic collard greens. kale, spinach, green leaf lettuce and organic carrot shavings/organic summer squash shavings with peeler. 

MINERALS: Reptile Calcium with D3 (Indoor Miner All)

VITAMINS: Reptile Vitamin either a daily use or a bi-weekly use: such as  Repashy Superveggie - ok daily or Vionate 2-3x per week. Suggested: sprinkle vitamins on salad following manufacturer directions for all age groups. 

WATER:  babies up to 3 mo every 2nd day with eyedropper or add extra water to salad plate enough to drink/ 4months to adult every 3rd day by adding water to salad plate enough to drink or put in sink/tub with water up to elbows and monitor the dragon.

 Mealworms:  sprinkle just 2-3 a day until dragon is used to eating these then you can sprinkle a dozen or so in his dish.

  2-3 month age group: 

 AM: Salad and crickets/roaches (body length of insect equal to width of dragon’s jaw) dusted with calcium (a dozen or less)

 LUNCH:  grubs/worms variety (Black Soldier fly grubs/mealworms) (a dozen)

 SUPPER:  crickets dusted with calcium (a dozen or less)

 4-6 month age group: 

 AM: salad and crickets/roaches(roaches every other day) (body length of insect equal to width of dragon’s jaw) dusted with calcium  (a dozen or less)

 LUNCH: grubs/worms variety (black Soldier fly grubs/mealworms) (a dozen or less) SUPPER:  a few crickets (some won't eat any or they should eat less than a dozen)  

 6-8 month age group in good body condition (not obese):

 AM: salad and large crickets/roaches (roaches alternate days) and grubs/worms (meal worms/soldier fly and a couple of superworms) dusted with calcium

  SUPPER:  a few crickets (some may not eat any at all) and if dragon is not hungry, alternate supper every other day. Near adults can become overweight...in such a case offer supper bugs only a few days per week. 

  Large sub adults - adults (8mo and older)- adults in good body condition (not obese): 

AM: Salad   

Bi-weekly: small variety of crickets/roaches and grubs/worms dusted with calcium (reduce bug feedings to one day per week or less if dragon becomes obese). Many adults become overweight or are nearing this stage...in such a case offer bugs only once per week or less. Adjust the feeding for the individual dragon. 

General Housing:

12hr daylight cycle - night cycle........no light/heat at night (No, NONE)

UVB: T8 reptisun 10.0 tube/ T5 10.0/ T5 Arcadia 12% tube (get a UVB meter..top of basking head should read 3.5-5.0 UVI)  Use TUBE UVB bulbs not coils.  Arcadia has a good selection of fixtures and tubes.

HEAT:  basking bulb provides heat this can be achieved by purchasing:  incandescent bulb / halogen (Walmart) or commercial reptile basking bulb....whatever wattage needed to bring  hot spot to 105 degrees. We don't  use any type of under cage heaters.  The basking area should be 100 - 105 degrees.  The basking and UVB are on the same side of the tank., directly over the basking platform/stick.   The cool end of the tank should be in the 80 degree range with no UVB  overhead...dragon need to  escape from heat and radiation when he chooses.

SUBSTRATE: tile, vinyl, paper towels, newspaper (once you are comfortable and  your care is on par you can put him on sifted play sand and can mix with gravel if you choose)

HUMIDITY:  levels can be in the 35%-50% ranges with no problem.  Very low humidity levels could affect the proper shedding of dragon.

CAGE FURNITURE: commercial reptile branches, tile platforms (check that it doesn't get too hot to sit on) anything substantial for him to climb on adds enrichment. We don't use hammocks or anything that the dragon could get caught up on or ingest like fake plants or fabrics, no wall paper on inside of tank that he can eat.

Young dragons:

36 x 18 x 18 or bigger bearded dragon cage (we handmake our cages out of melamine)..you can partition to make smaller if needed while he is still small and then remove as he grows.

Subadult/Adult:

48 x 18 x 18  or bigger bearded dragon cage (we hand make ours out of melamine)

If your tank is large enough you could use a Mercury Vapor Bulb (Solar Ray) instead of a UVB tube...what ever works best for your set up. 

  REQUESTS FOR PICTURES OF PARENTS NOT IN ADS ARE PROPIETARY AND CAN NOT BE ACCOMMODATED.  THESE BREEDERS HAVE OVER 20YRS OF KNOWN GENETICS BEHIND THEM WITH NO KNOWN FLAWS WITHIN THE BLOODLINES. I GET MANY REQUESTS IN A WEEK.... SOUNDS EASY TO ASK FOR PHOTOS BUT, THIS AMOUNT OF WORK CAN NOT BE SUSTAINED. NOT TO MENTION MY PAIRINGS MAY NOT BE STORED ON MY CELL PHONE.  MY PHOTOS AND KNOWLEDGE ON BREEDING IS PROPIETARY.   REPRESENTATIVES AND RELATIVES PHOTOS CAN BE SEEN ON THE FRONT PAGE OF THIS WEBSITE OR ON SOLD DRAGON PAGE.

Guarantees:

Live Arrival Guarantee: The dragon is guaranteed to arrive alive.   The dragon is not guaranteed to arrive on time, carrier  does not offer refunds for late same day arrivals and  offers refunds on a case by case basis for over 24hr late arrivals.  Very late arrivals are rare however. If your temps are over 90 degrees or below 25 degrees the dragon will go to your nearest hub.  The animal must be retrieved from the delivery person's hands and not left on door step at all. Carrier will leave this dragon on door step and may not even knock or ring your door bell there is no signature upon delivery as I do not want this dragon to go back into the truck and ride in the extreme heat or cold all day until 5 or 6pm when delivery person returns to the Fedex warehouse...the dragon will not survive this. You MUST make arrangements to be at the location all day where dragon is delivered and you MUST be waiting and on the lookout for this dragon. The tracking number is provided to you via a photograph of label sent to your phone on day of ship out. It is your responsibility to wait for animal.

  In the extremely rare instance that a dragon may be found deceased when you open the box, and I can't stress enough how very rare this is.....you must notify me by text or phone call to: 561-309-9956 with accompanying photo within 15 minutes of the delivery time that is noted on my Fedex shipper's notification panel and I will refund the purchase price. ( If I trade or purchase a dragon from a fellow breeder..I retrieve dragon from delivery person's hands and I open the box immediately without delay...My customers are required to take the same care and dedication to these animals as I do on arrival day).  If I am notified about a death more than 30 minutes after arrival and again rare........I will understand that you left the animal out on your door step.... it over heated or became cold because you did not retrieve dragon from delivery person's hands and open box immediately as agreed and you will not get a refund. 

PARASITES:  We do not routinely de parasite the dragons here. Fenbendazole caused illness in my  dragons when  used routinely. Years ago I dewormed everything 3 months old and older routinely for a while and this shortened the life of the dragons. I had created a problem that did not exist trying to treat them as I did my horses and mammal pets and to see if this would be a benefit to these reptiles. It was worse to routine de-worm a dragon than to treat an imbalance that can pop up. Now, we do not de-worm or routinely administer anything to any dragon unless we spot questionable behavior and then a fecal and blood work is performed  to identify and properly treat a problem found.  Dragons have parasites and have coexisted with parasites, they even have parasites that are bearded dragon specific ...dragons can manage this naturally if he is a healthy and well cared for, however, if he becomes stressed these parasitic loads can become imbalanced and then it is necessary to do a fecal and treat the dragon once the "culprit"  is identified.  The absolute best thing to prevent illness in a dragon  is to use common sense and properly care for the animal.... wash those greens, keep his cage clean... lots of ventilation, correct temps, proper feed, and LOW stress environment.   Take your dragon out in the sun every other day/ few times a week for at least 30 min if you can weather permitting....by  holding him or letting him bask in an outdoor enclosure...no glass tanks, these overheat.

Health Guarantee: 

If you have followed this care sheet and feeding guidelines on it  and have not deviated within 7  days  of delivery and this is rare, but I understand things can happen..... I will review the info/situation and issue a refund of the purchase price, but  not shipping fee of the animal and animal must be returned to me at my expense for medical treatment.  I do not give refunds because the lizard does not like his cage, you have followed incorrect advice, you have been misting him in the cage,  you sought from a person/group on the internet, the kids, dogs, birds, etc are making him stressed because of this, etc.  I will work with you on improving/correcting set ups for as long as it takes to bring about proper set up and thriving behavior. 

When your dragon arrives it could be dark in color and possibly upset... this is generally due to being bounced around a few airplane rides, a truck ride, and now stress of relocation. Put the baby under the hot spot and allow him to come to cage temp. I do not use glass cages, they are too hard for me to clean and young dragons stress too much being able to see adults across the room.  Wrap your glass cage with newspaper if your new dragon stresses...remove a section at a time after a few weeks.  Handle infrequently and allow the dragon to settle in for a few weeks then once he is acclimated you can begin to handle him more often.

 Support:

Your dragon has lifetime support...please call or text me immediately if you have a question about his care, health, or behavior that is causing concern. 

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